Good work everyone! Here is my progress on the 2008 Mercedes Benz SLR McLaren Roadster.
Agh, this started already?? 0.o
best get blending I suppose 
@bartric to get perfect alignment of body parts easiest way is not to split up your body, model the body as one piece without seams and caps, only trace them with edges of course, so u can easily split them up after… (u can check my images)
also another thing i noticed is if u have trouble with wheel arches/fender, then start them with a circle and then start extruding it out and moving to align body curves, that way u get nice smooth round wheelacrh
oh and when posting wires do it from an edit mode with solid faces, or with object mode shaded(solid)+wire in draw mode menu 
@ tyrant monkey I was thinking about the A pillar-blueprints, the “line up A pillar in the front and side view of blueprints” helped me.
Thanks for the critic and the the tip 
Good to see a lot people in the thread, it’s pushing me. I was afraid a bit it will work back-way.
I think I rather do single edge extrusions because then I only have one edge that I have to move around to fit the blueprints at once After I have completed a shape it is an easy task to extrude it out anyway. Thank you for the tip though
Most models I’ve looked at (and made) done with a single loop end up with an uneven edge mainly due to the difficulty of getting an even extrude in Blender on anything but the simplest shape. With the code fixes made recently to the “ctrl” click process of edge loop creation it’s much faster to go this way. In the samples I posted I did just about nothing to make the loops fair.
ok i began working on a Ford model T
did some fo the front axle accessories and the front of the car ike hood and radiator
plus a grid done with double array to ahve something which can produce real shadows
see first pic
does this have to be done in 2.5 or can bed done in 2.49 and transfered in 2.5 later on?
C & C are welcome
happy car design / modelling
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So i have been working on this Honda Civic Type R 2001.
It seems like i have this problem for every car i do… I get the general shape, but i can never do the details. I am thinking this is due to poor topology, because whenever i add loop cuts to sharpen the subsurf, i sometimes sharpen the wrong stuff…
Anyway here are the screen shots/renders… any critique, and help is much appreciated.
And no i am not using those wheels…they are just temporary
Oh and i always have trouble with the joints…meaning the places where the different parts of the car come togeter, the door for example with the rest of the car…it has the holes…so does anyone have any tips or trics on how to get those parts looking good?
Orthographic Wires
Perspective
Front__________________Back
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Renders
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I’m a noob and this car has more evolved into fun project although I don’t get much time to work on it.
/uploads/default/original/3X/4/6/46728445b5c6656d6b8f41f94954c8170f6e16e7.pngd=1288039459
So, does anyone suggest I should just start over then due to Max Evil’s comment, if so, I shall. Just looking for input. Is there any way to attach images like we use to could? where it would actually show them, instead of showing a link?
Cool, good to see so much advice in this thread. Im gonna have to get into it.
Ill be doing a good old range rover, nothing all that exciting, and if I get that done I might do an older Aussie ford falcon. They will be for a realtime project, so Ill need to model both a low poly and high poly and bake some normals.
Heres the one Im gonna do first, I have some good blueprints for it (just need to find the time now :rolleyes:)
Does anyone have advice on how to approach this best? I usually model a low poly, then duplicate it and add the higher poly to the duplicate, but a lot of the time I feel like its not the best way to do it. I know some people start with a high poly, and box model a lower one using the higher poly version as a guide.
@ DDD
I select the vertex what I want to keep. Cursor selection (shift s). After that I select the other vertex to scale it to the cursor.
When I start a new part if it’s possible I duplicate the edges to be sure they are similar to each other (vertexes number, edges and their positions).
In a new edge I start with double extrude, or later I use loop cut and edge slide.
On my model I want to cut the door later and try to use Retopo. Because the shape is difficult for me.
Edit You should write down your PC details too.
Can’t judge a book by it’s cover huh! ( Never trust a snake! 
)
@ DDD though ur model looks good in clay render u need to work on your edge loops to make it perfect, it doesn’t look good if vertexes aren’t matching, becasue ur body lines aren’t flowing if u want to. If u want them to mach either duplicate the edge like no.reason said or dont split them up at all, and separate those part from body in final editing stage.
Personally i like to use the no splitting up technique because that way i can use dge loop cut on whole model without the split up parts ending the loop
Here is a picture, your model edited, as is if i would have done some of the loops LINK
Im not saying its 100% correct way to do it, but i tried to show how to get decent topology of edge loops which is the aim of this thread
[edit] also dont be afraid to end your loops with tri so that the loop wont mess up your other parts of the body that you dont want to be sharpened
Yes, if you haven’t started yet, and hesitate between a few cars, the best choice is really the one for which you can have as many references as possible and that you can approach as much as you want in real life. some curves are hard to get from blue prints or photos. some are even hard to remember when you can see the real car only once. The benefit is huge like figure drawing from a real model.
About the cutouts and holes, there are good poly tutorials around, also what follows only applies to hard surfaces with distinct parts following continuous curvatures, organic modeling is different.
The fastest approach is really spline networks here, to avoid going back and forth between the topology and the form: with polygons, every time you separate something, the catmull clark tensions will distort the form, and you have to add geometry, but then the topology gets too dense to get really smooth curves. When looking close, any poly car model done in a reasonably short time looks like its driver is used to follow pebble loaded trucks. of course all poly modelers are used to live with that and keep massaging the model until it’s as perfect as they want, but how much time have they spent and how much of the precision have they sacrificed from the ideal curve. If none, how much time have they sacrificed before that in the learning curve…
Whoops, looks like I’m late to the party!
Just read thru things here and one comment for bartric, I don’t know about starting over, but yeah, I think it’s best to model as one solid mesh, then cut apart into pieces later. At least that is the approach I’m taking.
So here’s what I’ve done. I’m doing the Ferrari 308 GTB. 1st attempt I started on the fender where it meets the door and just couldn’t get it right. 2nd attempt I started on the hood and yea, just didn’t feel good. 3rd try, I used a less clear blueprint that allowed me to see some more body lines and yea, things worked for me. I think I’ve got good edge-flow where needed and don’t think it will be a problem to cut apart later.
In the screenshots, shot1 shows 2 areas circled that I need to work on. Shot2 shows some spots where I reduced verts, but I kinda question the edge loop flow by doing so. In shot2 above the rear fender, where the side extends up towards the roof, I’m wondering if I should’ve reduced there, or just continue to run all edges thru that area, giving me more verts than I need. Shot3 shows a closeup of the area, and the inside of the air duct where I added verts to get a smoother curve on the inside bottom of the duct. Any thoughts/comments?
Randy
@revolt_randy the back pillar actually can technically stay like that imo, only thing u need to do is when extruding that edge for nice sharp seam you need to merge few vertexes afterward when cutting a edge loop there
Kinda hard to explain stuff with words, pictures is always better :o
front fender needs more roundness, really good picture with angel to show how round it actually is LINK
getting on with this old Ford model T truck
here is an old batterie and the frame with back differentiel + wheel
happy 2.5
Wow this is going fast you have okay here is my progress shot on my Elise not much done but this car probably has the most complex air dam I have ever done. I will have to be offline for Saturday and much of Sunday as I have a wedding to attend.
I promise paint overs and crits on Sunday if I have recovered enough. I will probabley just do that and get back to modeling from Monday onwards.
Nice works
@ tyran monkey
you model from a simple mesh
no subsurf for now and no Nurbs surface
but need to follow the different 3D slope in 3D from 2D background pics
this is the thing i find most difficult cause you don’t know the slope between the extremes given by the 2D pic
any special tricks to better get the slopes and location in between ?
at least with nurbs surfaces you have the slope continuity
but with mesh you don’t have this effect automatically included
so how can you do that with a simple mesh ?
happy 2.5
So tyrant monkey…you are starting tight off with a dense mesh?? Isnt it harder to control it compared to low poly then going denser?
But yeah cool progress on your part!
As for me, i did some retopologising, according to the paint over (thanks max evil)…but i got stuck…in the back part near the light i cant seem to find a good way to joint he faces…so yeah any help is appreciated.
As for the joining stuff, i have no idea what you said no.reason :S
Attachments
Ok, I’m going to go ahead and do a model of my 93 Miata. I need to get this ready for doing a sponsors layout for next seasons races anyway, so here goes!
Got eager to see how it was coming and went ahead and filled in some of the faces, but I really should get the edge faces completed first. If anyone is curious, there are edge-loops pre placed for the parts gaps, when I’m ready I’ll just delete them.
