A few questions about this

I am new here and I have a few questions about modeling with this.

  1. When using blueprints/reference pictures to make models (for example, a vehicle or weapon, such as the one I linked below), I use a plane and edit the vertices to get a correct outline. Is there a more efficient way to do it, and if not, how can I make the plane 3D? For the gun (a PPSH for those wondering) I made below as my first model, I used a plane to outline a reference picture of it and then had to duplicate it, which caused me to have to connect a whole bunch of edges to make it 3D, and also causing me to have to get help from a friend with putting the trigger in the middle since when I connected them the trigger spanned the whole width of the gun [question 2 below is related to this]. Is there a way to have just made it 3D? And again, is there a more efficient way?

Here is a picture pointing out how me having to connect the edges made it look really weird:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]382533[/ATTACH]

  1. Just so I don’t have to request help for something like that trigger thing again, how do I cut off the sides of something to just have it left in the middle?

  2. I am confused with UV mapping. I have no clue where to place the seams, and with smart UV mapping, I have no clue what things on the UV map belong to what on the gun. I have tried selecting parts of the gun to see where they are on the UV map, but the parts are scattered all over the UV map where on the gun they are all together.

  3. With blueprints on the map that are not labeled for commercial reuse, does that count for the blueprint itself only or things made for it too?

Thanks a lot and I hope you don’t mind all these questions.

ppsh.blend (675 KB)

  1. I’ve seen your model and It’s has a fairly dense mesh. You should use as less polygons as possible to gain the desired shape of the object for subdivision operation/modifier. You don’t need to duplicate a plane and connect edges with one another manually to get it to be 3d, there’s a simpler way. You can just extrude the plane by pressing E.

  2. I honestly don’t know what you mean. If you’re referring to the trigger guard, nothing is left in the middle everything between the two sides is deleted.

  3. In most cases it would be desirable to mark edges that are at angle of 75 degrees and above.

  4. It only counts for the blueprints itself. Unless the blueprints contains a personal and a original concept.

I suggest that you watch couple of tutorials on how weapons are modeled and how a proper topology should look like.

  1. Okay, thank you for the tip.

  2. As shown in the model, the trigger is placed in the middle of the gun in terms of width. Before I got help from my friend to do that, it was not in the middle, but as wide as the gun itself was.

  3. Okay, thanks.

  4. So, if I make a model of a Desert Eagle for example, using a blueprint that is not labeled for commercial reuse, I can sell the model itself since the model is not the blueprint and Desert Eagles are not an original concept?

Thanks.

When you are modeling in 3D, you need to begin with a 3D shape, and refine it until your model has the level of detail you want.

When you work the way you describe, you have both large scale shape (barrel, reciever, stock) outlines, but you also have finicky little details (saftey, sights, adjustment knobs). This will just lead to frustration.

The Add>>Mesh menu has a whole range of primitive 3D shapes you can start with. I find the cube, cylinder and sphere are the ones I use most often.

From looking at your model, break it down into four parts: the receiver, the stock, the barrel and the magazine. Start with two cubes (receiver and stock) and two cylinders (barrel and magazine.) Only add vertices when you must, in order to get closer to the shape you want, and, in general, add them using the loop cut tool (Ctrl+R). Get the overall shape of each piece correct in 3 dimensions before you think about adding any detail.

Don’t worry about UV mapping (or texturing) until you can make a decent model. Just slap some gun metal grey colored diffuse material on it, or brown for the stock (if it’s made of wood.)

If you get stuck, or if you just get to the point where you don’t know what to do next, post your screenshots here and ask for some more advice.

Welcome to BlenderArtists :smiley:

I guess I will try the model I am doing right now with a 3D start. Also, the barrel on that gun I made above is not even a cylinder in real life because the barrel isn’t a circle. Since that gun was my first model, do you think a WW2 P-51 Mustang would be too hard for me right now? The P-51 is what I am doing right now.

  1. Then your friend just scaled down the trigger by pressing S and moving the mouse.

  2. It doesn’t matter if the blueprint is copyright protected or not as long the depiction in the blueprint isn’t. An original concept would be something from the game such as Portal Gun, FR-27 S.F.R. , a original concept weapon,vehicle or a character from a deviantart user etc.

That answered my questions, thanks.

To be honest just delete what you have. The current model is a mess and will only lead to one problem after another. Don’t be afraid to dump something and start again. It’s a false economy if you think you’ve gone so far and you have to continue with it.

When I posted that all I had done was outline a tiny part of the plane so I really don’t need to start over.

Also, to other people, I tried to make a little bit of the plane in 3D but moving the vertices over and over again after they mess up is getting to be a pain. Is there a specific way people make models from reference pictures/blueprints (particularly of vehicles and weapons)?

Bullets are round, so barrels are cylinders. No way around that, unless you discover a way to shoot square bullets. Now, that barrel may have stuff covering it that isn’t cylindrical, but it also isn’t the barrel. In any event, is the shape closer to a cylinder or a cube. If it’s closer to a cube, use a cube. if it’s closer to a cylinder, use a cylinder. No big deal, but you do have to look at what you’re doing, and think about it.

WW II aircraft are advanced modeling projects. WW II small arms, done well, are intermediate or advanced modeling projects. Beginner projects are things like coffee cups, bookshelves, tables and chairs, wine bottles. Try a few beginner projects to get a feel for the tools and workflow. If your friend showed you the method you used to make the blend file you posted, stop taking his advice on how to model.

The only thing he did was fix the trigger. Anyways, people say to use low poly count. Where do I and do I not make polygons and vertices? Like with the model I posted in the main post, polygons were everywhere, as I connected the edges. On other peoples’ things on Youtube, they all have nice squares laid out. I have no clue how to do this.

One more thing: Should I make the plane then extrude out or make it all in 3D at start? Making it in 3D with a blueprint is hard for me to do.

I know, right? I also made the same mistake when started 3d modeling. I remember like it was yesterday, I was so enthusiastic about modeling a SCAR-L rifle but failed in the end when I realised how much time I spent modeling and in the end made something that and intermediate user could have modeled in a mater of hours while I was here modeling for days and days. @@AHWM Don’t try to push yourself into modeling something that is obviously far from your skill level, no offense. We’ve all been there, I know it’s hard to accept the fact that in the beginning you can only model simple and boring stuff that Orinoco mentioned, but that’s just how things here work.

@@AHWM , if you want I could just make a simple 3d model of PPSH-41 for you. In that way you could have a better idea how a proper topology of weapon should look like and what modifiers you should use in order to save time. Just say yes or no, ok?

That would be a great help to me. Thank you if possible.

Here you go my friend:PPSH-41.blend (1.98 MB) . Don’t forget to set the value of simplify subdivision to 2 or more in order to subdivide the model. Or you could just turn it off.

I’m looking at it now and it has a lot more detail then mine lol. I followed a tutorial and made a coffee cup yesterday so I think I am learning a bit more now.

Thanks :slight_smile:

No problem, you just keep practicing. You’ll get better at it one day. Makes sure that you use modifiers a lot so that you can modify your models more easily and to keep your .blend files as small as possible in terms of memory.