Claymore (Updated 11-21-02)


(IMProvisar) #1

Ok… I was interested in doing some old weapons, and decided on doing a claymore.

So far (version 1) I think I’ve nearly got the shape of the blade. Ignore the hilt, it’s just a couple of flat planes to show proportion.

http://mysite.iptic.com/improvisar/gallery/claymoreproj/claymoreproj.html
[edit: Version 3 now up. 11-21-02]

Thoughts? Also, any tips on making a decent texture for a nice, clean, shiny blade would be helpful. :slight_smile:

Imp


(blengine) #2

the blade looks really good… please go into the render window and turn osa on =D


(BgDM) #3

Good start!

For the shiny blade, find a very high contrasting texture image, (i.e. lots of brights and lots of darks in the image), then apply the texture as you normally would. Now in the material settings, set the texture mapping to “REF”, adjust the “COL” slider, (it’s on the bottom right of the material screen), to about 0.5 and then also press the “TUBE” mapping. Do a render and see the shine. After that, you can play with the HSV settings as well to get a really great looking shiny metal.

If that was not enough, let me knwo, and I can do a small tute or email you a file with the setup.

BgDM


(IMProvisar) #4

Thanks for the input, I’ll give all of those things a try.

Took me forever to get it rounded the way I wanted, subsurf really distorted the shape, and regular smoothing didn’t smooth the base of the blade at all. I’m not exactly sure what that part’s called, I’m no blade expert, but I wanted it to be slightly rounded at the edges. I ended up doing a whole lot of regular subdivisions, then set smooth, and it’s almost perfect (to me). Once I got that look, I threw it up. I still need to go in and pull out a whole lot of vertices (the flat sections don’t need them all), and I’ve got to work on the sharp edge some more.

Thanks again!
Imp


(pofo) #5

Looks pretty ok.

It looks a little too flat though. To make a more interesting blade, try making the outline of a cross cut first then extrude it and shape it as you go along (ie scale it down towards the tip, remove the edge close to the hilt, that kind of stuff).

Here’s a couple of swords I’ve made, none of them is a proper claymore but maybe they can be some inspiration:

http://w1.185.telia.com/~u18510119/broadsword.jpg
This was mostly a texturing test, so don’t expect too much from the modelling :wink:
http://w1.185.telia.com/~u18510119/sword2.jpg
One of my older models, not that great but I still like it.
http://w1.185.telia.com/~u18510119/im/im6.html
This isn’t anywhere close to a claymore.

  1. pofo

(Alltaken) #6

another way to get a shiny refection on your blade that will change depending on the angle you are looking at it from is an enviro map. this will make a false ray tracing type effect on the texture.

i used one for the refections on my engines of a space ship.

as the guy above did and i will do heres some inspiration for texturing of a shiny surface.

your soward looks good perhaps try making one using curves then converting them to mesh’s

at the ottom of the page you will find refection examples
there is also a tutorial on this website about it . its a cylinder block looking tutorial

good luck with your sword

http://www.dm7.net/gallery2/gallery/album05


(IMProvisar) #7

Flat how, not thick enough, or not enough contour?

Most of the claymores I’ve seen are very straight and flat, with with generally little curvature, or detail along the blade, though much of the “definition” of a claymore has to do with the shape of the guard and hilt. I think that part of the classic design is the edge doesn’t go all the way up to the guard, and the base (without edge) is often wrapped in leather, so the wielder can reach out past the guard to gain more leverage when needed.

Imp


(pofo) #8

Sorry for not making myself clear.

What I meant was that your sword looks a little hard to cut with.

http://w1.185.telia.com/~u18510119/outline.gif

It all depends on if you prefer to bash down your enemy or cut him up of course. Your design is probably pretty efficient against a man in heavy armor.

I think the tip looks a bit too thin though. I’d round it off a little, more like (5) than (4)

I agree with the leather wrapping on the blade, that’d look nice.

Sorry for being so picky about a wip ;).

  1. pofo

(IMProvisar) #9

As for 1, 2, and 3, I was going for #1. In the modern claymore replicas I’ve seen, all 3 have been used. If they’re somewhat accurate, I suppose the wielder picked a shape that best fit their needs… since this one isn’t going to be used in a fight, it’s just for show, I get to pick for looks over use. :slight_smile:

A step ahead of you, hehe… already been working on that.

Still unsure if I want to implement that. Some I’ve seen have engraving at the base (which leather would cover up), still deciding which way I go, though I could make many versions.

Don’t apologise, I’m fairly detail oriented, and I love the input. That’s the reason I put it up, thanks!

Imp


(IMProvisar) #10

Ok, real quickly saved a few renders and put them up as version 2. Same url for the project- http://mysite.iptic.com/improvisar/gallery/claymoreproj/claymoreproj.html

Still having some trouble… the edges are either too sharp, or too smooth, lol. To recap, V1 was a basic shape, and I just subdivided and subdivided and subdivided then set smooth. Did nice around the base, but I wasn’t happy with the edge, I want it to smoothly taper to a sharp edge, the taper in v1 is way sharper than I want. Tried subsurf, and it threw the whole thing way out of whack, using as many subdivisions as I dared, or only 1.

v2, the blade is actually a brand new mesh… I moved the first blade aside, and used it as a reference for proportions. I beveled the edges myself, then subsurf (1 subdivision) and set smooth. The base of the blade is near perfect for me, as well as the overall shape except one thing… the edge is too round! The only thing I want to have a sharp angle, lol.

Another question… the planes I had as reference for the guard and grip are now ovals. They’re seperate meshes, but the same object, any way to subsurf only one mesh, or does the entire object have to be subsurf in the same way?

Oh, I did turn on OSA, thanks! Also, aded a texture for reflection (just temporary while I work on it), funny that it looks somewhat like a cloud… I found a high-contrast image, my cat, but since it there was an open window and a bright day, the window was bright, and indoors was almost black… didn’t hardly do anything, so I just scribbled a bunch of white lines on it, and got that, lol.

Thanks,
Imp


(pofo) #11

Starting to take shape :).

When using subsurfs I suggest you model with it from the beginning or it will usually make the model look funny. To make a sharp angle you’ll need to make a very thin face in between the faces you want the angle between, or use split but that gives a razor angle.

I don’t think it’s possible to use subsurfs on just part of an object, but you can always just split it in two objects.

  1. pofo

(S68) #12

Nice start,

me agrees in the need of a groove in the middle and also would suggest a sharper edge :slight_smile:

Stefano


(blengine) #13

i like the sharp edge version better =) but osa is sure sweet in version 2! :wink:


(IMProvisar) #14

Ok, finally version 3. :slight_smile:

Here’s the link to the Claymore Project, and to Version 3 only.

And here’s one of the images…
http://mysite.iptic.com/improvisar/gallery/claymoreproj/ver03/claymore03-04.jpg
…the rest of course can be seen by following the link above.

The explanation of how I made the grip is also there.

I’ve got a nice oval cylinder… not quite what I want, hehe. Anyone have an easy way to taper down the ends nice and evenly? It should be a bit fatter in the middle.

Thanks in advance for the comments/suggestions/criticisms/at-a-boy’s, hehe.

Imp[/img]


(slikdigit) #15

makeing a lattice might be an easy way to do the taper. Magnet modelling is another.


(IMProvisar) #16

Thanks, I’ll have to try to figure out how to do that, hehe.

Imp