Close-up simulation of a woven product

ello everybody! I am an Italian textile designer and I started using Blender to simulate the actual result of my projects as snapped in a 3d reality. I am basically a beginner in Blender, but if you see the attached images, you can remember some point just considered by me. First, I used a bitmap as a filling material for a mesh, according with real sizes: it shows a basic simulation of the fabric (thanks to an external textile software) and then I used some bumpmap with Crazybump. Lights follow the classic 3-point template, but I am not skilled with positions and amount of energy…My goal is to to setup a close snapshot as near to a real photo as possible. Any suggestion about lights setup or about modeling the basic figure? Many Thanks - Franco