OK !
Can you share a screen capture of the shader set-up ?
Did you just plug a colormap with direct coloring method and did not touch to default ?
If it is so bright. Maybe, it is because defaults are not so great or a BW version of colormap should also influence other settings like IOR or offset.
Note lighter hair renders slower than darker hair, due to more transmission bounces deep into the hair. This is part of what makes this shader gives more realistic results for blonde hair which is otherwise quite difficult to render well. In general it’s expected for the new shader to be more expensive, since it includes some components which are usually left out of other hair shaders.
It’s also expected that colors work different, depends on the parameters of the hair and the previous node setup. The colors in principled hair are based on trying to match the colors when the texture is applied to a regular mesh, figuring out the absorption needed to achieve the right color after multiple scattering bounces with a particular roughness. It’s just a totally different method than what there was before, but should work quite well for using texture maps to control the hair color.
It is a pity to have removed mode controls.
I think they could be useful. Except primary, secondary specular, explanations would have been necessary.
But as an experimental feature, it could have been kept.