so, I just finished the “Normal Map” for the small inset on the bottom of the NES Controller, and I did a quick render test to see how it would deform:
I would have to turn up the Nor-value just a bit, but it works really well, for a black-and-white image Here’s the original, btw:
Fell free to use it, it’s not like I can claim copyright over it though if you do use it, please credit appropriately :yes:
Now, on to the other pieces…there’s one of these on every single piece, not to mention the 4 insets on the actual console. :no: sigh well, at least I’ve figured out how to make these.
Mostly building the base mesh (in dark grey), and then I re-built the topology of certain sections so that it would be clean and properly shaped (sections in light blue).
I’m also only working on the left half of the mesh (the one closest to the camera). The rest is all done with a Mirror Modifier.
just changed the Thread name to “Detailed NES Console - WIP”. sorry if this is a bit confusing for those of you who’ve been following the project, I just thought the thread might, ahem, get a bit more comments/views with the new name :o
What you did up there as a “Normal Map” is actually a bumpmap. The difference is that for a Normalmap, the faked shadows are calculated in all three axes acording to the tangent of the mesh segment, making fake-hangovers possible, while bumpmaps only go into the z-direction, not taking into acount any hangovers.
And speaking of it, it seems that that map isn’t apropriately highres or smooth enough: you can see jagged parts that look like single pixel layouts in the shadows.
so a Normal Map would be more precise, right? I don’t really think I’d want shadows off the text, the height difference isn’t enough to justify it, but I’ll definitely try another Render test with a Normal Map. Once I have, I’ll post the results here.
on another note, not much progress on the 20year-old Emerson…been kinda busy, haha
A Normalmap would be more acurate but in the case of your text, a bumpmap should actually be perfectly fine.
The issue with the map is that it’s either too lowres or too sharp-edged or maybe both. You can see the pixel-nature of the map in the render. That shouldn’t really happen…
It’s a high resolution version rebuilt from the various pieces. took roughly 15 minutes to reassemble everything in GIMP at 1600x483, which is the proper size ratio (previous Bump Map was 586x177)
Adding in some overlooked details on the Expansion Slot under the console…
Still a few left in other spots (screws, insets, etc.) but I’m not sure how easy they’ll be to add in.
Screws are fun to do though, I made some once for my 3D Magnemite so I’m very curious to try again with my improved modelling skills
Skills indeed, very clean mesh, moving along most well! Now I’m sure you’re a sadist, but just in case you’re not, there is bolt factory (both in 2.49b and addon for 2.55) to generate those sorts of things… I’m pretty sure you’re looking to make them yourself, but in case you weren’t already aware of them.
My big question though was going to be what game will be on the TV, but I think it’s pretty obviously going to be Zelda =P
yep, Zelda 2 Zelda 1 is going to be on top of the console.
I also have plans to do a Super Mario Bros. version of the cartridge, but that’ll wait until this one’s done.
haha, no, I didn’t know about that add-on I’ll check it out…though I’m still going to be making the screws myself the question is, do I actually make the bolt as a whole, or just the heads? I think there are only 2 visible screws on the console, the rest are in their respective shafts…
well, the problem with having Zelda 1 is that I’d have to put Zelda 2 on the console…I would have preferred having Zelda 1 on the screen, but the fact that there would be two Zelda 1 cartridges wouldn’t be very obvious considering the lid of the console would be closed while running at least, I think it’s recommended to close the lid while it’s running… it’s not like the GCN where if you open the lid everything stops maybe it could work somehow, I don’t know, I’ll have to try
thanks for the wiki link, I’m looking at it right now and there seems to be lots of interesting stuff I haven’t really looked through all the add-ons properly yet…
edit - I just started experimenting with the Bolt Factory add-on, and it is seriously cool
Here’s the original, btw:
though if you do use it, please credit appropriately :yes:
it’s picture quality is still super-good, thankfully.
(haha, who else could it be?)
haha)
Once I have, I’ll post the results here.
Zelda 1 is going to be on top of the console.
I’ll check it out…though I’m still going to be making the screws myself 
the question is, do I actually make the bolt as a whole, or just the heads? I think there are only 2 visible screws on the console, the rest are in their respective shafts…
at least, I think it’s recommended to close the lid while it’s running… it’s not like the GCN where if you open the lid everything stops 