so im using mirror modifyer and solify and i need help with fixing the middel thing
scar.blend (469 KB)
scar.blend (469 KB)
You should model hollow geometry when using a mirror. also your control geometry for the subsurf caused deformation in the middle. And where loads of doubled vertices. around 75 iirc.
Yours:
My suggestion:
And the resulting blend.scarreturn.blend (420 KB)
Hope this what you’re looking for.
Your screenshot only shows a mirror and a subdivision modifier. I’m assuming you’ve already applied the solidify modifier. If so you need to go in in edit mode and delete the faces on the mirror line. Or you can delete faces back to where the object was before you added the solidify modifier, then add a new solidify modifier between the mirror, and subdivision, and it will automatically remove those hidden, inner faces.
I included a suggestion regarding topology for an object of that type. Judging from the name you’re going for the hand grip of a scar assault rifle. It’s only a suggestion though. It’s based on the rough shape of your original model.
Take note of the base shape without the sub-surf modifier switched on. Where you want smooth curvature try to even out the distances between edges. Where you have protrusions and indentations makes the edges “flow” around them. Sub surf behaves in a particular way. So you have to build the mesh to accommodate it. Rather than expecting it to fix or smooth out the mesh. It can only work with what you provide.
Attachments
scarMacsEdit.blend (386 KB)
thx for the help budt if i have a cylinder and i want a circle right around the cylinder like a screw you know
That doesn’t really tell us much. Be specific. What are you trying to do? 
Im not quite sure what do you mean by it. have you an image reference for it ?
If it is just for create “rings” around the cylinder… just add enough loop on it, then extrude them. ( can even just copy the loops/(faces ) created on cylinder, then extrude them for get the rings ( if they are not mean to come from the surface. )
If it need to be like a screw… well, will need a bit more work then.
A basic way of doing it:
- Do a circle
- rotate it a bit for get the right shape
- copy it, bridge edge loop, create a loop in the middle, scale it outside, bevel it slightty.
- copy the shape created up, bridge them ( bridge edge loop again ). ( can keep the same space the bevel you have done previously.
- copy it and bridge them for get the right lenght.
Its good to do the bevel before and keep the same space when you brige the pieces as this way, nothing to add when you use subdvision then.
If you’re creating an M24, the harris bipod seems to be the most commonly used manufacturer. There’s no need to have a bar inside the springs in that case. You could easily create a spring with a simple circle,offset from it’s center, and the screw modifier.
Is that what you’re trying to do? They’re often sold with rail attachments. But I don’t recall seeing any on bipods.
Are you working from reference, or just making something up?
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What you have in your image above would be considered a threaded bolt shape. What I’m showing you is a spring.
All you really need is a circle mesh, and the modifier.
Put a circle mesh into the scene with as many verts as you want, and rotate it onto it’s side. Ignore the other circle. It’s only there for reference.
Next move it to the required radius distance from the center. Obviously do this in edit mode. Scale it if you need to.
Bring in the screw modifier
Bring the “screw” value up to the desired amount from the modifier.
Then increase the iteration value to the desired amount. If the normals aren’t correct, use the “flip” option. Playing with the “screw” value will tighten up or loosen the shape. Changing the shape, or scaling of the circle in edit mode will allow you to further tailor the result.
If you look at your circle mesh, in relation to the object origin, you didn’t offset it. You still have it in the center. While in edit mode, move the circle mesh to the left or right, with the modifier active to see what I mean.
There’s nothing wrong with experimentation. Move things around. Change settings and see what they do. Your computer won’t explode.
Look at the second image in my previous post. The circle is not in the center. It’s offset from it. The distance from the object origin (the little dot) gives you the radius of the spring. The more you push the circle away from the origin, the bigger the radius of the spring gets.
Right now, your circle is passing through itself, essentially.
thx i made it work budt is there a way so scale it so the middle wont be so open
Ok. Before the conversation goes in different directions, what exactly are you trying to create? I’m still not perfectly clear on that. If you’re creating a harris bipod or something like it, then it will use two springs. One on either leg, attached to the center piece.
The legs are really just cylinders.
Any operations that work on a mesh will work here, and affect the result of the modifier. If you move the circle in edit mode this can shrink the radius and make the hollow in the center smaller. If you scale the circle mesh it will thicken or thin out the result. Don’t be afraid to play around with it.
If you want to give people an idea of what you’re aiming for, then search for a few images. We can’t guess from text what you’re trying to achieve. Is it some kind of threaded bolt? Or a spring?
Are you trying to create a realistic bipod? Or are you making something up yourself?
im making a m24 sniper and a spring bipod with a cylinder in the middle
Ok. So I’ll take it you mean a harris bipod. Seeing as that’s the one most commonly associated with that weapon.
Are you using reference images? If you want to recreate a real world object, good references are important. Doing it completely from memory or what you think looks right isn’t going to get a decent result.
Lots of images like this one would be useful. Get a few together taken from a variety of angles.
There’s some decent shots of a harris bipod here.
The model doesn’t have to be perfect to look good. It simply has to be identifiable. So when people look at it they can tell very quickly what it’s supposed to be. Don’t worry too much about model and series numbers. If you can’t find images for a specific model, then you can incorporate images from similar ones. They’re not vastly different in design.
If it’s for a game engine, you could actually get away without using normal maps. Because it’s made of some fairly simple shapes. But that’s entirely up to you.
If it’s meant for use in Blender or for practice, you can be as accurate as you like.
this is the image im using im not as good with diffrent images for modeling
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