So far I just have the rim and buttons, but I am trying to get it as detailed as possible. My one problem so far is the “splits” in the antenna rim. When I cut the area out, the subsurf causes it to, well, subsurf. When I edge split it and move it to the edge, it gets black splotches, so I can’t get a nice sharp edge while retaining the subsurf.
If you are referring to the edgesplit modifier, don’t use it with subsurf, it will give bad results. Best way to get a sharp edge in subsurf is to add extra edge loops, and move them close to where you want it to be sharp. If you are still getting those dark splotches, check your normals, best way is to recalculate (ctrl+N)
I’m finding it very difficult to use edgeloops for sharp edges because of all the holes in the mesh. sometimes in order to get a sharp edge in one area I will add one extra loop, but end up with two extra in another area because of that, resulting in a black line.
It’s looking good so far! Solid surface modeling like this is really tricky, it’s hard to get everything to look good without having funny creases everywhere. I would recommend posting some wireframe views so we can take a look at your topology as that is pretty important in solid surfaces.
If you haven’t done so already you can also take a look at some of Jonathan Williamson’s tutorials over at blender cookie. He does a fair amount of inorganic things and is really good at explaining why you want loops and where you want them.
Only if you set it up incorrectly. Always use the subsurf before the edge split in the stack.
Here are some wires. I just noticed that the antenna “split” mesh in the 3rd image curves in a little, I’ll have to fix that. This is the “split” that I’m referring to: http://static.arstechnica.com/iphone4review/iphone4_antenna_split.jpg
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Please, anybody! I cannot figure this out! If I put subsurf on top, everything gets completely screwed up. Adding extra loops to the edges just result in black spots if I move it all the way over to the edge, or gaps if I move it over anything shorter than that, even .9999. Right now my “solution” is to UV texture the black splits, but I really don’t want to have to do that!.
I don’t understand what your problem is… Are you saying you have a edge split modifier followed by a subsurf modifier? and this is creating black spots?
Here are some screenshots with the modifier orders and their effects. The second one is after edge loops have been placed on the edge:
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Move the subsurf up before the edge split… you can never subsurf after an edge split.
then for the second part, you need mark the edge sharp
Quite honestly, I am sitting here with my iPhone 4 in front of me, and the split would probably better be accomplished with just making a cube and having it go through the antenna, just for the simple fact that there isn’t much of a change besides a VERY small change in height
Here’s a quick circle doing a wanna be iPhone case… Be mindful of where I marked sharp and marked crease.
iPhone.blend (316 KB)
Can you see if you can reproduce those results on my model? I can’t seem to get it to work without black spots or a split edge where the corner bevel should be.
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iPhone 4.blend (347 KB)
Hehe, been a while since I used 2.49b (it was a bit cumbersome to do this compared to 2.56). Now we could get this even better if we did a little bit of topology adjustments.
Crease/sharp file -> iPhone 4.blend (346 KB) (I think is what you were trying to accomplish … ?)
Some topology tips (I’m not suggesting you do this for your model if you don’t want) but tips for you I thought you might like. When doing hard body modelling as this, there will be strong poles (a vertice that has an even number of edges leaving it) and weak poles (a vertice that has an odd number of edges leaving it). Strong poles will hold shape so any edges that need to be sharp or creased you want to do your best to make all strong poles. Weak poles then you don’t want on these edges.
The easy way to get weak poles off creased/sharp edges is just to do an extra edge loop (making a short extrude into a flat/hard surface). I’ve done a mockup here (and I will try to adjust what you have as well if I have enough time this morning). Weak poles that ought be moved are circled in yellow, the blue line is 2 suggested edge loops to help alleviate the weak poles.
Work could still be done to it a bit, but the important edges are now “protected” and nice crisp edges will be held (you did a good job so making the adjustments was quite simple… simple rip-> scale -> close new faces).
iPhone 4_2.blend (355 KB)
I can’t figure out how to duplicate your results… I think maybe I’ll just texture the dang things on and be done with it. GRR!
Here’s the steps (keep asking questions, we’ll get there). Starting with the blend you posted:
1.) I deleted the faces to create the opening.
2.) Select the edge loops (as pictured… the yellow-ish selected edges ALT+RMB on the edge to select the edge loop, SHIFT+ALT+RMB for additional edge loops).
3.) Crease the edges (SHIFT+E -> 1)
4.) Mark the edges sharp (CTRL+E -> Mark Sharp)
5.) Move the subsurf modifier up in the stack above the edgesplit (pictured below in correct order).
I tried those instruction and ended up with this. Adding the extra circle around the holes to keep its shape causes the edges to lose any sharpness. Also, the edges are black.
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So if you render either of my files do you have the black edges (first image) also? I looked closely and I suspect your black edges are caused by the texture in your material (I don’t have the texture). I suspect though that the UV mapping over the image, the UVs are a smudge into black pixels. Look closely at that and move the UV’s +/- X to fix it. Additional test for this is remove the materiel and try to render and see if the black still exists. Otherwise, post your exact blend to produce that render and maybe I can find what’s causing the black lines.
As for the second picture where the edges stray that’s where changing topology will help, this is something that just comes more naturally with practice. In this file
tab to edit mode and you can see the few adjustments I made.
In an attempt to better explain, I’ve highlighted some of the key edgeloops. The green & aqua colored edges are the new edges that should be made. The aqua edge loop was made by selecting the pink edge, doing a SHIFT+D to duplicate the vertices and then H to hide them. I then re-selected the original pink edge and moved it constrained along the X-axis (I also move a handful of other vertices to keep them spaced well, the vertices along the orange edge for instance are arbitrary, they only need to remain in a row along the x-axis, so where they are x-wise doesn’t much matter). Then I ALT+H to unhide my new vertices and I close the faces up.
For the ring around the headphone jack, we have 4 weak poles, so we don’t have a full edge loop (so the following needs to be repeated 4 times). I first select 1 full edge loop (ALT+LMB) and then rip the edge (V), again, I (H) hide my new edges. I then rip the other 3 edges. Now I unhide all the vertices again, but I select all the vertices that compose the inisde of the head phone jack (select the bottom most edge z-wise and CTRL+NUM PAD PLUS to select the additional vertices, just do that until it stops selecting… the mesh is broken). I then Hide those vertices (H). Now I can select all vertices (A) and remove doubles. This will take my 4 separate edge loops and make them whole. I can now select the full edge loop and scale it up a little bit (this now makes the green circle edge loop (don’t confuse them with the green straight edges, I should have colored them different). Finally, I can unhide my other vertices (ALT+H) and close the missing faces up.
By now I fear I have perhaps lost you… sadly this is where video would be much nicer (but I still haven’t learned/understood CamStudio).
Before I noticed your comment I actually changed around the model a bit, so now it’s the Verizon iPhone 4. The antenna gap that used to be by the headphone jack is now on the side above the ringer switch, which has been moved down a little. Edgesplit is still above subsurf modifier, so to get the sharp edges I dragged 4 edgeloops, 2 on each side, over to the edge .999 to avoid the black smudges that happen at 1.
