Leather stitching - photorealistic

Hi,

I’m looking for advice on how to create the subtle, soft puckering that occurs perpendicular to the stitches in leather (and most fabrics) for a photorealistic image. I’ve highlighted the example in image. I’m wondering whether I should sculpt it in or create in Substance Painter using height channel/alpha brush…or another method???

Any advice gratefully received!
Using Blender and Substance Painter

Many thanks!

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