Matthew Dizon - Sketchbook

Yay Finished Esper

ArtStation https://www.artstation.com/artwork/aYeOOz
ArtStation Print: https://www.artstation.com/prints/art_poster/qPJO/esper

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Old photo of 3D Print of Chincha

Decided to finally start the post processing.
Sanding + Filler Primer, then more sanding to smoothen it a bit more.

Working on a new creature sculpt to 3D print

Head feels awkward, going to change things up

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Finished the Sculpt, will merge together and prep for 3D Printing

3D Printed Corgi Fox

That’s about it.

As for post processing; smoothing it out through sanding, filler and spray painting. I do this meditatively over time and I’m in no rush, might take months before a fully smoothed version is finished. In addition I’m still polishing chincha.

As this is now for time on the side, my main time will focus on a new project.

DIY Stair wobble support. Wooden stair step at home has a very subtle wobble which is only noticeable when going down really fast down the stairs.

Point of snap, makes the metal hover a bit, then when stepped on the step goes down very subtly. If going down the stairs to fast the step goes up slightly which has caught some people off guard. So the plan for the upwards motion is to use ropes tied vertically from the beam. The slit on the 3D print is to have another rope tied horizontally to keep this 3D printed brick from sliding downwards.

This design is to stop the flex of the wobbly step then use ropes to tie the connection in place.
Area circled in red was snapped because someone thought it was a good idea to straighten a steel pole using wooden steps… but the step has been study for years, it just has a slight dip to be supported by the metal beam when stepped on.


The plan is to just tie down this metal connection so the step doesn’t move upwards. While the ropes stop the upwards motion the 3D printed brick is to create more stability for downward pressure. This isn’t really the main support for the step of course, the metal beam has been the sole support. This step doesn’t wobble side to side because of other metal, fence and wall support points.


I’ve also created gaps at the top and bottom because I have a roll of rubber to use for extra grip and dampens pressure.

Working on a new custom character. Using my base mesh I made from scratch.
Used ZbrushCore to flesh out the main clothing.

Onto Blender for the finer model details.

Adding more Model Details

3D Printing a Cover for my Room Lamp. Idea is to have a clamp attachment on this decor, that will allow something like paper to cover up the power of the exposed light bulb.

The issue of this room lamp the bulb being too exposed and blinding.

Decided to follow a curved roof Japanese Temple style.

Still working on Kotora, which is my recent new custom character I plan to upload to Sketchfab and 3D print

Hair Base design

Used sculpting and Hair Strand line curves

I feel like I’m taking longer to complete this modelling phase, I keep adding detail but that’s because I learned from past figurine printing that I need to focus on Model detailing more than texture detailing to make this 3D print nicely. I’m thinking I’d put more time in Modelling. Texturing will be much more quicker because of the style I’ll be doing that will be 3D Print friendly.

Another issue I was had to brainstorm is how to transition low poly rigging and posing with the high detail model to 3D Print. I reckon when I clean up the model for real time environments like sketchfab then rig and skin it together. I can use Blender’s transfer weights function from Low Poly to High Poly and hopefully skinning data is retained nicely for 3D Print posing.

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8_Final Details

Currently retopologising, cleaning up and re-ordering hierarchy. Aiming to have a High Poly, Low Poly and 3D Print set for this stage. Then will use a rig to effect the low poly and the 3D Print set later.

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Created Subtle cloth detailing for the High Poly Set. Aimed for very subtle scrunches instead of heavy folds because clothing is a little thick on the outside and firmly pinned/ supported for the inner clothing.

So far in this retopology I’ve been manually simplifying topology and also Z Remeshed the most of the top clothing, cape and hair.

Currently I’m now manually retoplogising the hair, then will move onto the face and some areas Z Remesher didn’t do so well.

Currently at 170k tris. Aiming around 60k tris.

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Still retopologizing Kotora. Finished with her hair, ears and face.

Then retopologized her torso and manually decimated other areas.

Currently at 116k tris. Changed target to 100k tris. So just 16k more to go then onto UV Mapping.

Finally hit 100k tris

Then finished UV Mapping her

My Material Plan is to make a 4k set with 4x2k textures:
Attire 01 - Upper Clothing and Body (Torso area)

Attire 02 - Lower Clothing, Accessories and Props (Lower and Accessories)

Hair - Hair Strand Texture

Head - Facial, Ears, Mouth, Eyes

Next is to transfer into Substance Painter, bake texture maps and start texturing.

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