My PGP paintball gun

Here’s my PGP paintball gun blended -
http://www.boomspeed.com/folder504/PGP4.jpg
http://www.boomspeed.com/folder504/PGP5.jpg

The real thing -
http://www.boomspeed.com/folder504/PGP.jpg

Any suggestions on how to make it better?

very nice - just need to tweek the materials so eveything isnt all plasticish if thats a word :wink: also you have a couple weird bumps in the grip that could be tweaked out. like the nice addition with the paint tube maybe a mask and a paint rag to spice out the layout?

also turn on shadows in the render buttons and OSA and you will see much improvement in your render imediately :wink:

keep em coming buddy!

Thanks for the tip! I turned on shadows and OSA.

hey, cool! better than any gun ive ever modelled! good job…i kinda dig cg guns… :<

Thanks! I’m pretty new at this, but I’m understanding more things every time I make something.

is it me or are the dark green bits un-smoothed?

very nice.

needs bump maps

What’s a bump map?

Oh no, someones cutting into my stylin paintball gun business here…

Oh wait its just folder from the tippmann forum :slight_smile:

Nice job man, i like. The grip panels texture could be improved a bit, and the foregrip seems not-smoothed. But easily fixed, the modelling is great.

The foregrip isn’t smoothed. It looks kinda weird when it is. Here - http://www.boomspeed.com/folder504/PGP6.jpg

Set the grip thing to Smooth, and then Set the “Auto Smooth” button. That will make it smooth only when the adjacent faces are not too far apart in angle terms, so you’ll get nice round sections, with sharp edges. When you have auto smooth on on an object it will always appear in its “solid” edgey form in the 3D edit window, but when you render it it will be smoothed appropriately.

btw bump mapping is like texture mapping except you are making little dents on the surface, or little raised areas. It works very well for small details, but its not good for bigger things because it works by affecting the angle the renderer thinks the polygon is at that point (as opposed to colour texture mapping which affects the colour), so it doesn’t actually form the grooves on the surface, but it creates the appropriate highlights. You get at it in Blender using the “Nor” setting in materials, so you pick a texture and set it to Nor (normally just Nor for bump maps) and then use the Nor slider to adjust its effect. Hitting Nor again so it goes yellow will invert it so the grooves become hills and vice versa. Another click and its off, many of those buttons work like that.

As a bit of advice regarding your piccy I’d select your wood surface and make the wood texture affect the specularity by hitting “Spec” and then using the var slider to adjust it. Lots of surfaces have variable specularity, even if its subtle, and it can make the world of difference. Also a nice reflection map on the lamp, so any random photograph set to about .150 mix colour with the “Refl” button set instead of Orco (whatever that actually means . . . ) should do the trick. I’ve got one photo of a mate in a bar which I use for practically everything.

I find modelling is often a shorter process than setting up the materials, textures and lights.

Whilst I’m here, reduce the alpha of the tube with the balls in and increase the “Spec tr.” or whatever that one is. That will make the highlight areas more opaque whilst leaving the rest . . .