Poles, tris, it’s awful. I know. But I’m a little bit confused as to why there’s such a sharp delineation in the Solid display – I expect some aberrations, but why is it so sharp?
Ye, and in 2.82 the face orientation colors are theme-able, so you could leave it on with less intrusive colors (i.e. transparent for front to keep the viewport shading, obnoxious red or black or whatever for back).
In edit mode it does in object mode only if you have “wireframe” turned on in the Viewport overlay menu.
In edit mode it even shows backfacing polygons transparent.