Look this short, a 3d anaglyph movie (use color glasses)
http://forums.cgsociety.org/showthread.php?f=154&t=799223
I think it is possible to render the finished Blender open movies in this format?
Or - big dream - IMAX or other professional format?
server is too busy???
Without Max we cannot make any good 3D movie. Blender is no use for professional format. :rolleyes: So no, it’s not possible :p.
Damn, you beat me to it:evilgrin:
insider stuff coming up
Actually - it’s possible to use the very same 3D-technique that the latest
3D movies from the Movie Theaters use today (you know, Ice Age 3D , toystory 1&2
combo in 3D) that use the two polarized glasses that can be had for a dollar.
These are one-time (still, pretty sturdy plastic) glasses given out to the movie goers
before the movie starts, and NOT COLLECTED (but for keeps) once the movie
is open.
The idea behind this cheap and simple principle is very easy, polarizing the
movie instead of using shutter glasses.
SO…what you do is: (Technically difficult stuff for nerds & geeks coming up now):
-
Collect as many of these glasses you can after the movie, people will throw
these away, you need a bunch. -
Get an LCD projector (NOT AN DLP projector, it wont work properly!)
-
Now this is where things get tricky, you can do two things from here,
you can either MODIFY the existing “contrast-polarizer” adjustment pin
that goes to the LCD panel inside the projector, and solder it to a TTL-to-SERIAL
compatible “pulse” and connect it to your parallel port on an older pc, or
get a USB to PARALLEL Adapter.
OR
You can make a so called “colorwheel”. but then programming becomes more
advanced, and you need a motor + a led + a sensor diode.
You make the color wheel like this. Make a round disc - make 4 or 2 big round
holes in the disc - matching the polarized glasses you picked up from the cinema
Put the polarized material in each hole, exactly polarized like the glasses! This
is IMPORTANT - this wont work without it. The Holes size should match that
of your projector optics size.
Make an extra hole for the sensor, put the LED on one side of the wheel
and the SENSOR on the OTHER side of the wheel, this is what we will be using
syncronizing the thing to the movie…explanations later…
Now…you have a motorized “polarisation wheel”, this is in fact exactly how
they made the cinema to 3d movie conversion 
yes - it is THAT simple.
You need to control the motor and read the sensor with the Parallel port, so
make sure you have made a connection to the computer.
If this is too hardcore for you - you can in fact GOOGLE and buy a standard
interface with 5-6 inputs/outputs you can program with your favorite IDE + c++ dev kit.
- Understanding the theory behind this:
Ok, now you have either modified your LCD monitor (which is easier!) to polarize
the LCD element slightly off-biased, or made a polarized “colorwheel” in front
of your projector, both are perfectly usable, but the lcd method is preferred.
What you have to do is:
a) Render Big Buck Bunny (or whatever 3D movie you have the RAW materials for)
in stereo by SHIFTING each frame, meaning frame 1 is for the right eye, frame 2 is for the left eye, frame 3 for the right eye, frame 4 for the left eye…you catch my drift!
b) now you have to make a small program to a scriptable movie player, this script
will “SYNCH” each frame to polarize the LCD (or syncronize motor speed so
each polarized glass hits each second frame)…
that way - we will now have a polarized projected image onto our wall.
- Use the other glasses to watch the movie -in glorious color 3D.
And yes…this will work, I’m not kidding. I was planning on making a “kit” for this, but
it’s too bothersome
So now you have my entire “theory” served for free, I bet we’ll see chinese “copies”
for converting your Projector into 3D soon…hee hee…
Just wait for it…It’ll come!
Edit Extra simple idea…
…but slightly more expensive is to purchase TWO projectors, and glue ONE of the TWO polarized glasses
on EACH projector…like this: While projector 1 is showing frame 1 of the movie, projector 2 will be showing a
blank frame, while projector 2 is showing frame 2 of the movie (the left eye position or whatever) projector
1 must show a blank frame…kind of the same theory as above
…and remember to syncronize the frames on each projector, and each projector must be perfectly alligned
to show the movies at the same screen/spot.
AND you can still use those nice plasticy free glasses from the movie…
oh, and
Surely if using the two projector method, there is no need to use alternating frames and you can just have the full film rendered from the two viewpoints projected on top of each other. Or am I wrong?
that movie without, and with, the elephant was way too obscure in one camera.
i think adding one more, and overlapping them, would really enhance the experience.
and i am not talking about cameras, but the little parts in the machine, sitting in the projectors, that wrote what they saw happening…
.b
wouldn’t one projector work, I have seen anaglyph dvds of shrek and these work with standard tv’s its just a question of who has the time and the computing resources to do it.
LOL
Of course polarized movie dont work at home. (Except you buy a stereo monitor.)
But an anaglyph version will be good for everyone.
And: maybe some big IMAX user company will be publish these movies…
nice script and technical stuff but it’s a very boring short movie to demonstrate this. :spin:
The studio where i use to work speicalized in 3D stereo, they were using two high-end ultra bright projectors with polarized lens filters, coupled with a silver lined screen (stupidly expensive) and normal poliarized glasses, it worked amazingly well, the 3D pop out and sense of depth was beyond anything i’ve ever seen before.
You still have to have the alternating frames, because of the polarization trick.
You “trick” the mind by placing 2 differently positioned camera views and
displaying it “shifting / alternating” to each polarized filter with your glasses
because when frame 1 is showing, polarized horizontally, then glass no.2
will shut of your vision of that second projector because the frame is vertically
polarized, so technically - you’ll need this “trick” to make it work…unless
you want to go “cross eyed” 
In which case - your theory would work fine
even without the glasses…not sure your focusing ability would like it though,
tried watching those stereo images by cross eyes? After a few minutes, you’ll
feel weird…