Welcome to owing a digitel camera and the wonderful of photographs.
Regarding your photo - ultimately the end user is the one to judge if your photos is usable. My advise is to go for a flatish surface, and then take lots of photos with your settings with as much light is possible for optimal phototaking.
If the image is to go to 3d, then the user simply has to cut and paste the seams into the final uv-unwrap image.
thank you
a flat surface of white color i am guessing ?
allot of light is good , means taking a photo in day light is always the best
what about taking texture from a in door scene ?
i wanted to know if there are recommended settings
about taking a couple of images , is great.
but in cases of taking a photos from more then on side of an object
means i need to take a photo of a closet from front ,top , left
all images should have the same light effect
taking 20 photos of each side , and start fiting images sounds like a to much hard task
The most impotent thing is to get the lighting very even, fixing textures which have an obvious `bright spot’ can be very difficult. Also avoid having shadows in the image.
set your camera to Manual and your aperature to something pretty high (since the texture isn’t gonna move anywhere, you can use a tripod and set the aperature to something like f8 or f11 and use whatever shutterspeed you ned)
put the material in front of a large, very diffuse lightsource (such as a big window on a cloudy day, or bouncing a light off a white wall or using a softbox) OR put a large, very diffuse lightsource behind the camera, pointing at the subject (it’d be great to have a ringflash, probably the best bet, but it’d also be great to drive a Ferrari)
expose with a grey card or your best guess as to what looks right (not too bright, not too dark, keeping all the detail in there)
shoot in RAW as much as possible so you can tweak the white balance to remove any color cast after shooting and adjust contrast
do NOT use the on-camera flash unless the material is perfectly flat, but even then, it’s better not to.
keep the camera as perpendicular to the surface you are photographing as possible so it stays square.
edit, that didn’t work.
[edit2] this should be good: http://www.filedropper.com/screeny
I couldn’t direct link it into this thread or else I would have been scalped, then burned at the stake because of it’s vast resolution. (But don’t worry about file size, it’s a well compressed jpg)
[edit3] The screenshot of a tut fromwww.cgtextures.com but you can’t direct link it.
If you’ve got Photoshop, you just have to open the RAW image and play with the white balance slider. Otherwise, I’m sure there are other (free) programs that can do that as well.
A grey card is simply a piece of cardboard that is a neutral 20% grey but it’s calibrated to be a ‘perfectly’ neutral 20% so you can get your white balance of it. If you meter off of it you will get good exposure with good contrast between the whites and blacks. You can pick one up from any photography store or you can just use something that is similar that you can find kicking around your house. For 90% of things you can get by with something similar or just shoot and adjust until it looks right unless you’re doing archival work or very very precise color work.