Wood furniture modeling problem

I want to make a model of a bed and it has to look almost identical to the bed in the image I attached. I am trying all day to make an engraving on the mesh with the help of a CarveWood mesh found in the blender file. I tried Boolean modifier but that doesn’t work as expected. As you can see on front of the bed there is a small engraving that gives it its own style, and I’m unable to create anything that resembles it. I tried bump mapping but I could not apply it only to only one face that’s facing the camera. Please tutor on how to model the bed…

Attachments


WoodBed.blend (718 KB)

Bump mapping/normal mapping would be the way I would do it. You could displacement map it, but that would cost a lot of vertices. Not sure what you mean by ‘I could not apply it only to only one face that’s facing the camera’.

Yea, normal mapping would be best, and really easy to do. :slight_smile:
I would not waste time doing it with actual vertices.

forget the normal/disp map on something like this its best to just model it out. It really isnt that hard it, took me about 20 minutes to do this


here is the blend file so that you can look at how I did it.

headboard.blend (342 KB)

Grey Oxide already did what I recommended that you do… but here it is anyway.

I think this is simple enough for you to do with real vertices. At the moment your mesh is way too dense, eventually it may become this dense. I would sugest modeling the shape of the engraving the way it should look on the bed (not as a cylinder), then keep only the outline of the bed. Extrude the engraving out towards the edge of the bed, and engrave the bed shape in, then use F to fill the faces in between, using as many quads as possible, but realizing it’s ok for there to be Tris, since it will be a flat surface. After you’ve made the object, then you may decide that you want to bake that image and use it on simpler geometry.

Also it looks the the engraving is more of a triangle shape rather than a rounded shape, but I could be wrong. Make sure you crease the the shapes that need to be creased before you start connecting the engraving to the frame, or it will take a long time later. (You want to crease it, so that you can later subdivide it and make it smoother).


why does the headboard render like this ?

there are some other details but we don’t see these ?

thanks

@RickyBlender I used a mesh as a guide so that while im focused on the little details I dont lose sight of the shape that I need. It looks like I forgot to remove it.

You have much better modeling skills. I’m a beginner learning through tutorials how to model objects. Although I see the model you created I don’t even know the tools to model a mesh in such a way you did. How did you sculpt the front of the bed so that you have clean topology even in the “wood crack”? Did you cut you mesh along a path (could that be done)? I made the front of the bed out of a bezier curve then tried to add the crack somehow, only managed to add a normal map to simulate the crack. Also I see you have some pink edges in the middle of your mesh, what does that mean? Your mesh is symmetrical and I never manage to make perfectly symmetrical objects… :confused:

“only one face” I meant front faces (similar faces that are facing the camera)

Managed to add a normal map, but It doesn’t look as real as the model made by greyoxide

Bed.zip (198 KB)

“engrave the bed shape in” - I was trying to do that but I have unclean topology, even if I clean it up I don’t know how to engrave the mesh in another mesh :eek:

forgot about this H thing Hidden things!

ok i see the front was Hidden but was still rendering
but by unhding it saw it and move it out of the way!

thanks

@CRHasher I downloaded your model with the normal map you can try that but the results will be poor especially considering that the all of the tris originate on one side and then stretch to the other. Generally as a rule of thumb you want your faces to travel a relatively short distance. In this case maybe a foot or two any more and could start to run into problems.

In my experience Normal maps are only going to be effective at carrying details in small increments. For this example a normal map is only going to work well at carrying small details in the range of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. So a good usage here might be a few of those little dome headed screws, they are small enough that a normal map may be effective.

Since your groove is something like one inch deep a normal map is going to come up short. This brings us into the operating range of a disp map. In this case a displacement map would probably be able to deform the mesh to the necessary depth. However since the displacement mesh relies on actual geometry to deform you will need a very dense mesh. Especially considering that these lines do not follow a quad layout (the deformation will travel down the middle of some of your faces, and the result will look chunky). the end result will be either an underwhelming subtle crease or an super dense mesh that will add unnecessarily minutes to the render time.

a normal map is really just a kind of optical illusion it only gives your surface the “appearance” of bumpiness.

@ALL for a while now I have been kicking around the idea of a series of video tutorials. So far there are a WEALTH of learning opportunities for Blender. However it seems that there are not that many tutorials that specialize in one area and stay there. This is of course with the possible exeption of Andrew Price’s video tutorials he seems to have really stuck with Effects/Modelling for Cinema.

I was thinking that having some tutorials that were only aimed at tricks that help noobs advance to an intermediate level. For me it took about 3 years before I started completing projects and feeling good about the results. Really in truth it should not taken long, but at the time all of the learning material was more holistic in its approach covering many subjects but lacking depth.

My thoughts were that we need a thread where Noobs could post their projects that were giving them trouble. Once a week a more advanced volunteer would select a project and model/texture it from scratch. This would give the new user an opportunity to see other approaches and maybe pick up some tricks along the way.

Ill leave it open to the readers, would you use a resource like this?

If this is the case, I will try to find some time to record myself modeling this bed.

Started learning modeling in blender about one month ago. It would really help if you make a tutorial about making this bed or the front of the bed, because for a noob like me looking at the finished model does not teach me how to use the different tools to make this model. You made it by hand (no tricks like I tried to do it), and its low poly and has nice topology… At first I tried to make all the bed front with Bezier curves (even the bump) and got nice results but model was very high poly.

This type of geometry can be made quickly with simple poly modeling. Subsurface modifier can be used to round things off. The model is symmetrical. Using the mirror modifier will cut geometry modeling in half. This is my first assumption. This is my starting point.

You can simply start to put down the polygons for some thing simple. But in this case I just sketched out where to put the vertices and how to form a face on paper.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m626/cabby24/Blender%20Pics%202011/bedframe1.png

Starting from Plane object, I extruded points and edges to fit the mesh plan I sketched out. I did modify patterns as I went along.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m626/cabby24/Blender%20Pics%202011/bedframe2.png

Select the raised faces and extruded out. Extruded faces were massaged to make it smaller than the base. It is little tedious but I only have small number of vertices to manipulate.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m626/cabby24/Blender%20Pics%202011/bedframe3.png

Mirror modifier was added. And Subsurface modifier was added also.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m626/cabby24/Blender%20Pics%202011/bedframe4.png

Number of edges were “sharpened” to form more crisp lines.
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m626/cabby24/Blender%20Pics%202011/bedframe5.png

Nice mini tut there! I know I’m not the question asker but ridix taught me some things I did not know. Thank you.

I managed to make the bed front somehow. Base mesh it’s not perfect but looks OK. Seams I ran into a new problem, textures. I cannot apply textures to the front of the bed in a way that it looks like it’s made of wood. I tried to manipulate the texture (even texture space move/scale) but I always get stretched lines on my front faces. Nothing works, changed all possible mapping option but nothing happens. My Blender version is 2.60a.BedMeshRetry2.blend (429 KB) :no:

normally with image you need to UV unwrap you model first!
to better control the mapping

if you don’t you get this

which is not bad but does not look very natural

happy blender

Attachments


@CrHasher You did a good job! I’m sorry I didn’t get a video tut out I did a couple of takes, but I wasn’t able to get a good result in the amount of time that I had availible.

for the uv mapping there is a trick that I usually do for things like cabinet doors, headboards, etc. Since the wood grain is only a wood grain on the front and back faces you don’t need to try to get the wood grain to wrap around. If you looked at the side you would see the rings of the wood instead of the grain.

So try this instead navigate to front view with 1 on the numpad.

make sure that you have all highlighted with “A”
Then bring up the unwrap menu with “U”
and select “project from view”\

This will give you wood grain on the front and back faces, and it will make the sides look somewhat accurate. This is kind of a hack and it wont stand up to a very close view.

My final render with UV Textures. Not perfect and not 100% satisfied but practice makes perfect :eyebrowlift:


Real 3D handmade wood model just as I imagined it based on the original picture… :wink: