I do actually prefer to do css manually. At the end of the day pays way better to know well the standards and the syntax, and do your css no inline if possible, but with your sheet of classes well organized.
I didn’t like NVU fully, as like most wysiwyg tools, it tends to modify the code in what it prefers, tho slightly, not as rudely as other, even comercial ones. An exception is latests Dreamweaver, since MX, as it allows, if know to use it, to not modify your code at all, if only use code window and add wysiwyg stuff only carefully.Is the tool of that kind I’m okay to use in a company,but only if demanded.
I rather these days prefer to do all html and css by hand. I recomend using Firefox Webdeveloper extension, using the “edit css”, and miscellaneous/edit html features, whichi allow to change site appeareance on the fly without really modifying the local or remote file, and copy and paste those changes in a real document.
Yet tho I admit I spent many years learning adn using DW , as was so functional and good. At the end, now I need to play with many linux interfaces, and many browsers, etc, etc,etc, that the only thing with sense for me is plain ascii editing, and if possible with no strange windows characters or non good carriage returns some text editors add, even being in Windows.
I recommend you this place for css (but you would need some basic tut on the basic matter of css):
and for html, besides some basic tutorial also, this places :
Which may act as great reference places.
Obviously if you count on basic knowledge, and if not do a step by step tutorial on each matter, and get first familiar with basic concepts, which is not hard.
At the end, imho is better way, sooner or later is the way to go.
If you’re just in a hurry, go with Kompozer or Dreamweaver or anything similar. Whatever is averagely good will do. But the more you know the languages, the more possibilities you will have.