i tried to UV map the side of a boat with view unwrap
which does a 90 degrees projection but that’s not good
cause you loose the 3D effect of the model
and it does not look good at all !
so which method is best so you keep the 3D effect of the mapped object ?
thanks
The method ive seen most on ship uv maps is this. you pin the side from projection then unwrap again the bottom.
OR you could proably do it like this at the waterline.
you mean just do a simple unwrap
not a view projection unwrap !
ok i’ll do a test later this week and be back
thanks for helping
hope this work fine
but first i got to do my map hope this can be done in blender
how can you do your own map in blender if possible
i mean do you have to unwrap then paint it ?
i mean i’v already made most of the light and doors on the boat side as a 2D image in blender
but how can i use it for the UV Mapping onto the boat side on 3D model ?
i mean i don’t really wont to paint manually 200 lights plus all the door
just repeat it in blender and save it !
might be abnle to make an alpha map for the plates on teh side
but not certain this can be done !
thanks
how about a cylinder unwrap? do we even have cylinder unwrap anymore?
how can a cylinder work on the side of a boat ?
that might also create some distortion on the mapping !
thanks
No, firstly go into side ortho view then select “project from view” type unwrap.
then pin the top three quarters like ive done in the bottom of the first image (the red dots are the pinned verts) then on the model (in the 3d viewport) select the bottom verts & do a normal unwrap.
that way when you export the uv map out to texture in photoshop you can do the portholes in a straight line, the bottom bit doesnt matter as much cos its only really red & out of view.
I`ll be around next week to explain more if thats still confusing.
“project from view”
well i did that on another boat last year and it was a real disaster
the side of the boat look totaly flat cause the mapping was flat like planks horizontal
i don’t wont to see this again
mind you 3/4 of the lenght is flat vertical so not really a problem
but for the 2 ends where they are rounded inward then it will do something
but not certain it will come out nicely !
now for the map can it be done in blender or not ?
i mean i can try to do it in GIMP but find it very difficult
cause i need some windows rounded i also got some doors and other details i want to add on the side
that’s a lot and it’s very long
i mean i’m doing titanic ship with 100’s of windlow holes on the side ect…
and i want to do it in cycles with a good realist look
so how to make the mapping easy if possible in blender
i could use baking
making a high res model for holes and doors ect then baking it and using this as a UV map
any suggestions welcome
thanks
This titanic uv map sample shows the uv image is bent to compensate for the hull curve.
oki nce one where did you get this one LOL
did you do it yourself ?
if you have very good reference for the platin let me know or PM me!
how was the map made in GIMP or inside blender ?
what are the little holes in plates ?
have to test if it works ok later this week!
i began working on the layout for the map
and doing some planning also
fpr th
and only needto get the doors and plating on hull i guess
rivets not necessary too small on thsi model
unless i do a very close shot on a specific location!
thanks
For some reason it wont let me add attachments anymore, just wont upload. I`ll send a pm about references.
doing it in blender would be making your life more difficult than it needs to be, as I dont think it has the needed image editing tools.
for example to draw a line you would draw a path in photoshop then convert path to stroke to get a smooth line.
you could possibly do that in gimp but not in blender i dont think.
I aint made a titanic yet, its on my list of things to do.
well trying to stick as much as i can to blender
should be possible i hope!LOL
2 things i can do in blender
make a real 3D model then bake it as a normal map
or make an alpha map from model
at least it would give the basic shapes
then i can go into GIMP and make acolor map may be!
let me try to make a first unwrap and see waht happen to this !
now i’m getting confuse here will all the pics i have
i did a model for the cross section middle of the boat for the metallic structure like beams ,
and i tried to see if it fits the side view of many pictures i have and it does not!
Thats funny, I was working on doing a cross section probably from the same image & run into a few errors.
if its the same cross section reference were both using then that reference was made as a promotional image before the titanic was constructed, so its not accurate in terms of how things line up.
EDIT the original poster http://www.flickr.com/photos/castlekay/3755210594/
well the cross section shown in green is for the beams structure
not the boat decks
so wondering if i should use that one to determine the general height?
and another thing i saw is that some side pictures seems to show that the decks are not horizontal from left to right
like near the back or front some decks seems to change elevation like having a slope
so not certain anymore i think i have to modify my decks inside to follow these slope!
but this does not change the overall shape of the hull only the inside!
so for now not a major problem
first i have to make my plates image for the side
but for unwrapping it will probably be in 3 parts
one for the vertical side
one for the back rounded may be more then one unwrap !
one for the front rounded
nmay ahve to apply 3 materials here to get 3 clean UV map!
let me complete my hull and i’ll do a test on UV unwrapping later on
thanks
have to wait a little !
just found a crashing bug in 2.63 SVN 495 and reported it
so hvae to wait till i get a non crashing version !
thanks
Personally I wouldnt use that image. I would use something like this to make the shape of the hull. upto the yellow line.
only person whose opinion i would trust with deck curve would be ken marschall.
you can see they curve but in reality the scale of the ship would be so large it probably wasnt noticeable.
i did not have the first one thanks
here is my hull up to now
but i may have to review it function of the cross sections in your pic
should be better i guess
habving some problems to associate cross sections with top view
is there a high res for this pic ?
thanks
i’m trying to find out how to make the side plates!
anyone has good images as reference for these plates?
i know that no welding was used on titanic only rivets
but on one image i can see some bumps which i’m not certain what they were?
see pic here
we see some bumps on the real picture of the ships
see wiki page pictures that shows it on the side
but not certain what these are !
her ewe see some bumps vertical and horizontal for the plates
but what are these ?
i wont add the prot holes for the rooms
this will be added retopoed onto the side and with emit to simulate light source in cycles
at least it will look more realist in cycles!LOL
thanks
I dont have a higher res of the sections pic no sorry. maybe this will be a bit clearer visually http://www.titanic-plan.de/risse.JPG
I did do a hull once but that blends long gone.
I dont know what those red circled bumps under the panels are.
the blue ones are little doors that open to let coal into the boiler rooms
the green one is a recessed hole with a bar across to tie a rope to.
look at the alst wiki pic near the front boat
we cans ee plates with some bumps vert adn horzi
so what are these not welding !
so how to redo this in blender ?
still re working my hull with new cross section
have to make that one right
the drawing is such low res it’s difficult to follow with highr es the countours!
but i’ll get it
for now i stil work in 2.49
till they remove the bug i found from 2.63 later this week!
see the bumps near the red lines!
and here we don’t see much rivets
i tought all was done with rivets for the plates !
thanks
Titnaic hull plating boggles my mind. I did have a diagram but I cant find it so i drw it from memory.
vertically its like this.
whilst horizontally its like this.
the top line (red dot) is how it the diagram was, no welding just rivets. however I cant figure out how to make it work logically so id just consider it like second line (green dot) that works easier
